If you’ve been watching ‘We Were Liars’ on Amazon Prime and taking notes on summer wardrobe ideas like us, then you’ll be pleased to know not only have we saved you hours of internet scouring and social media sleuthing, but we can get the inside scoop on the series wardrobe straight from the source!
We recently spoke with costume designer Amanda Riley, based in France, who gave us some insights on what a huge production this was, and how she sourced outfits from all over the world for the actors
***No spoilers in this piece if you haven’t seen the show or read the book, so keep scrolling!***
‘We Were Liars’ follows a 17-year-old girl from a wealthy family, Cady Sinclair, who spends her summers on a private island. After suffering a terrible accident she struggles to remember events that happened in her past.
Amanda was dressing 3-generations of the Sinclair family that represent America’s wealthiest and brought their impeccable classic silhouettes onto the screen. As we watch the family’s journey across both summers, Amanda’s biggest challenge was finding the perfect summer wardrobe for each member of the family that showed their different personalities while still reflecting the cohesive image of the summer style of wealthy families.
As the show was shot in Nova Scotia, Canada, she relied on her shoppers across Paris, New York, Los Angeles, Vancouver, and Toronto to select perfect pieces from top brands like Brunello Cucinelli, Ralph Lauren, Doen, Love & Lemons, among many others.
Her focus was also the evolution of Cady’s wardrobe pre and post-accident which took place the first summer to reflect the devastating effects of her injuries on her well-being. Making Cady’s wardrobe also included printing fabric to custom-made multiples of the dress that Cady runs in through fire in the finale and the coordination it required with the actress, DP, and VFX.
What does it take to make actors look good on screen and find outfits that feel authentic to the story and setting? Read on below to learn more about Amanda’s background, her process, and the most challenging aspects of making a show that is set in summer, despite being filmed in cooler weather!
Where did you film career begin, and how did you get into the costume design business?
After high school, I traveled a bit, and when the time came to consider my studies, I always knew that my career would revolve around fashion. I took the plunge and applied to FIDM in Los Angeles and moved solo to the big city. I received my AA in Fashion Design, which taught me that the business of fashion was not what I imagined. Through filmmaker friends of mine, I discovered the universe of motion picture Costume Design. I worked on small jobs and even for free to accumulate film and television credits, and before long, I joined the union and started a Career as a working Costume Designer.
What kinds of films or movies do you love to work on, and what draws you to specific projects?
I feel very blessed when thinking about the projects that I have been involved with. I love movies from the 1940s, 1950s, and 1960s, and most of all, I love stories that touch and inspire people. Working alongside other passionate filmmakers is also very important to me. On film sets, artists and professionals who constitute a film team come from all walks of life to form a family while a project is being created.
The opportunity to develop ‘We Were Liars’, from book to screen, was very attractive to me since all of the creatives that were attached to it had a very strong vision for how they wanted it to look and feel. From conversations with our showrunner and executive producers to directors, cinematographers, and production designers, where there was a strong alignment creatively, which is a powerful force for beauty.
Tell us about your approach to designing the costumes for ‘We Were Liars’, and your creative process to stay organized right from the beginning?
Having the book as a guide from the start was a great way to start the assignment of creating a visual framework for the magical writing of Emily Lockhart. The true organization came as each script was delivered with scene numbers and day/night breakdowns. This is when you can discover what scenes each performer will be in and how many looks are required for each episode, which includes a lot of stunts and body doubles!
You were dressing 3 different generations of characters, which means very different wardrobe styles and trends! How long does it take to initially pull all the clothing together, and approve the looks for each character in a show that has quite a big cast?
When it comes to costume design on a contemporary television series, relying on clothing purchased off the rack, whether online or in stores, becomes the canvas and paintbrush to each project and each character. The first fittings are crucial to really understanding the needs of each actor and actress. From each fitting session, looks are created and characters are born. It is truly a synergy of the magic that happens in the fitting room when the actor becomes the character and the clothes work as the vehicle.
What were your biggest challenges on ‘We Were Liars’?
Initially, I was nervous about what was required to reflect the elegance and wealth of the Sinclairs, and the truth of filming remotely without access to high-end brands and stores. In addition, even though it was summer in Nova Scotia, the weather was really quite unpredictable at times.
It was a big ask for actors to be in swimwear when the temperature felt like early spring! My incredible on-set costume team worked tirelessly to keep all of the actors cozy and happy on and off screen, and the result is the feeling of warm summer days on Beechwood!
Which were you favorite looks to pull together?
My favorite scene to dress was the lemon hunt. In summer 16, when all the cast was dressed and on the front lawn of the Sinclairs’ Beechwood home. Each of the characters felt individual and had specific touches that I was very proud of. When dressing a large ensemble cast as this one, it takes an incredible amount of organization, from power shopping to each final piece of tailoring being ready for the big day. The way it all came together reflected the effortless style of the Sinclar and the joy that the lemon hunt brought the family, even after the loss of Tipper.
You worked with a team who helped you source wardrobe from all over the world! Can you tell us where the costumes came from, and what a shopper does to prepare outfits for a TV series like this?
I was very lucky to have an incredibly supportive executive producer team who really understood the importance of striking clothing. I had two full-time shoppers in Los Angeles, as well as one in New York and also Paris. The difficulty came with shipping all of the items to Canada. Each item that comes through the border needs to be catagorized down to the country of origin and fabric content! Each day, we had our fingers crossed the package would make it! Lots of close calls.
Which departments did you have to work closely with, and who gets to approve the final look for each actor?
In the pre-production stage, I aimed to get as much time as possible to understand the vision of the production designer and the cinematographer. As the series went on, there were so many departments that my team and I relied on. The final looks were approved by our showrunners, executive producers and directors. I would create boards of all the looks lined up next to each other and pitch them to the head creatives. It was a wonderful team effort.
What do you love most about your job?
I love the hard work that goes into generating what we see on the screen. Each project is unique and requires its own type of energy. This series had a large team and a lot of moving parts, so I relied on my Costume Supervisor, Assistant Designer & Key Costumer to keep as many balls in the air as we could! As well as the rest of the amazing crew. This was one of the most professional and hardworking teams a Costume Designer could ask for!
If you can give any advice for an aspiring fashion designer or costume designer wanting to get into the film and TV business, what would you tell them?
This type of work requires a deep enthusiasm, but also drive and thinking outside of the box. One’s passion can be born of so many aspects. I draw a lot of my inspiration from art, both living and still. I use travel and real-life situations to help guide my vision, and often use this when creating as a Costume Designer. Art is needed so much in this world, and if you have a calling to create, work with that energy and allow it to touch everything that you seek to express that longing.
What are you working on next, and where can we see more of your work?
A beautiful feature film that I did will be released in the theaters in November, called ‘Lost and Found in Cleveland’. This was one of my favorite projects of all time!
You can watch ‘We Were Liars’ on Amazon Prime now. See more of Amanda Riley’s work on her website, and follow her on Instagram.
